Monday, December 28, 2009


traveling about four months, in which I touched all four seasons
(I left in the fall, I was here in spring and summer and I will be back in winter).
And after:
about 18,000 miles ( 28000 km),
11 countries crossed ,
2 sets of tires ,4 oil changes, few cop bribes, salmonella, a quasi sinking boat, a couple of pretty bad falls, rain, snow, wind (the strongest ever!), cold, scorching heat, too many aduanas, too much meat,not enough road signs...
Nature ,nature , nature, and more incredible nature,
People, people, people… wonderful people.
Tierra, Madre Tierra…
I’m on my way back to my favorite home.
But this will not be an end. Infact (as I read written on a pick up on my last ride here):
La Vida eres el camino,no el destino.
That can be read:
Life is the journey, not the arrival.
And the journey keeps going!
In this lag of my journey I had the privilege and the luck to see so much, to smell, to taste, to feel so much, to experience so much, to be challenged in so many ways, to encounter so many wonderful people, even to play on the back of a pick up truck on the streets of Valparaiso for Xmas( thanks to the deligthful Villa Kunterbunt crew), and to do many other bizarre things but ultimately to get to know more about myself.
And this would have not been possible without the love and support of my dears and of many new friends I met along the way.
So, thanks to all of you , and to the Universe.
Amor, Paz y Luz.

Sunday, December 20, 2009


Chiloe' is a very peaceful as a place were it rains almost always and blu as the water that embrace this rolling hills and her rivers and her lakes. A magical island full of intriguing mythological ancient tails grown in misty woods and wild deserted beaches.
People are very nice, although I had hard time on understanding their spanish having all a very thick accent. Smiles are an international language. There are many wooden churches some 300 and more years old and constructed without nails or steel fasteners.
The tide (21 feet!)brings the water line almost a mile from the coast and that is why the old fishermen builded the houses on palafits. And a daily chance to work on their boats!
Xmas is here ( they call it Pasqua here..!?!?) And here it is my version of it.
Happy Holidays from the new baby jesus! ( or is it Santa?)

Friday, December 18, 2009

Ferry Austral

The crowd taking the ferry from Puerto Natales to Puerto Montt was certainly a mix of all kind of people.
All kind of languages spoken there and few Italians too, that are also going to Chiloe and maybe I will see again. And of course my brazilian fun new young friends with whom I had a great time, entertaining many on the boat… Italian and brazilian cultures and sense of humor mix very well! But I also had wonderful conversations with many travelers and once again I was pleasantly enjoying the depth of the connections that can happen between people coming from so different backgrounds. And by the exchange of energy that comes from it. This time,among many other wonderful encounters, I got some very deep spiritual positive messages from a chilean truck driver! And once again the 2012 year of the change was mentioned by many and in a very positive way.
And the food was pretty good , and the crew delightful…and … the navigation trought this gorgeous and at times very narrow fiords absolutely amazing!
And it was so good to be able to see this incredible nature without having to freeze my ass and instead going inside on a cozy chair anytime I was getting tired to be exposed to such a powerful harsh nature where the wind was so strong that I had to hold to the rail to walk outside or it would knock me down to the deck. But the air felt clean and renvigorating. And of course condors and seals and otters and dolphins and birds of any kind. And some time we were squeezing and slaloming in places where the rocky sides of the fiords were only 50/60 feet away from us… almost scary! But the Capitan did an excellent job, and without automatic pilot! And he even took a diversion for us to get a very close look to a nice glacier in a cul de sac of a fiord.
Ultimately a great trip! Small cabin, rain and clouds and cold forgiven!
And last evening we even had a great sunset and the sky cleared and the star were amazing and we had a party on the deck and quite a riot of a dancing!
Today I made it to Castro, in the Chiloe' island and I'm enjoying this lovely little place. Tomorrow ( if it's not raining) I'll explore a bit more then Sunday I'll head up north.

Sunday, December 13, 2009

Torres del paine

Torres del Paine is a park few miles from Puerto Natales where I am now and where I will take the ferry for Puerto Montt tomorrow. So, after I cooked spaghetti with ragu’ for few of us we had a fun party last night with young nice people from various countries joining us later on. I had tow very nice new friends. Two young guys from brazil that are taking the same ferry tomorrow and with them today I took an day bus ride in the park.
We spent about ten hours inside the park and it was great! The mountains are beautiful and the waterfall in the picture very powerful. But the highlight was the icebergs in the Grey lake…so magical. Blue magical. ( Paine is indio for blue...)
Anyway. Trekkers who went really inside told me how incredible it is…but definitely requiring equipments, time and …physical preparation. They are all very young and full of energy…and they are calling me …abuelito! It’s ok. Tonight I’m invited to eat ( and party!) again!
The weather is good, warm in the day and crisp at night.
Today was presidential election in Chile. Not sure who won but I can hear car horns so someone is celebrating. I’m gathering lots of opinion on the politics and social situation here. Very interesting, and complicated of course.
Looking forward to the ferry ride. 3 days in channels and fiords! And most likely no wifi. Oh well. I still have reading material.

Thursday, December 10, 2009


I wanted to go to a Penguineira since ever!
I love penguins! Don't I look like one here?
And here I was! In the middle of thousands of them! Cold cold cold wind but a wonderful sunny day on the Magellan straight, and on Isla Magdalena where there is this protected penguins colony.
I would have stayed all day! The interaction in between this birds families is amazing.
Now they are nesting and digging holes in the ground and preparing the nest. Also fighting on their property...but mostly just screaming at each other beak and sort of clumsy dancing puffing up to scare new squatters away.
So cute! And yet it's a serious surviving business they must do in this harsh enviroment. It's summer now so I can only imagine how bad can winter be in here...
Anyway. I had my chain and sprockets and oil change done in Rio Gallego, in a very nice shop ( SM motors) and I'm now in Punta Arenas( Chile). Then I'll go to Puerto Natales were I will take the ferry to Puerto Montt navigating fro 3 days trough the fiords...can't be bad!
More to come!

Saturday, December 5, 2009

Mission Accomplished!

YES! I made it to Ushuaia!
I finally made it to where I wanted to go since long time ago !... ...
With a last minute change in the plan...
I left the bike in Rio Gallego and I took the bus!
A decision very hard to take but that I'm glad I took.
I couldn't face this last 500 km with my physical limitations and with the fierce wind and road conditions I was foreseeing.
And I'm glad I did this. Even the bus ride was pretty rough!
So ...sorry for the full integrity of the trip but I decided at this point better safe than real sorry.
Anyway! I'm here!
And I have so many emotions going on at the same time...
When I opend the champagne bottle that I carried all the way from SF I was shacking and even a bit teary...and I offered some to the Ocean as my toast to all of you that are following this journey and I thanked the Universe that made all of this possible, and of course all of the loving people that helped and supported me. Including Karl, that, as we speak, is sending his bike back to California from Valparaiso. We did a long beautiful and at times hard stretch together and then we took inevitably our detours but still loving each other and we'll celebrate all of this back home some time soon.
Ushuaia is a beautiful town, surrounded by a stunning nature and tomorrow I will explore some of it.
Meanwhile a smile to all from El final del Mundo!
( BTW the date of the blog is wrong....
I arrived in Ushuaia on Sunday, December 6)

Friday, December 4, 2009

Crossing to the Atlantic

The wind finally was gone yesterday so I started going south on Ruta 40 from Bariloche.
I asked around about it, including a couple of tour agencies and the responses about the status of the roads below Perito Moreno were quite concerned...
I decided that I would be deciding on east or south later and I left the nice and cozy Bariloche. Rested and happy. I had lots of dulce de leche and I even had a chance to play drums on a jazz version of Bach's suites! Fun!
The paved road soon become a paved road in construction and I had to take long stretches on dirt realizing then that my right hand is still not happy with the hurts.
So that, together with the cold, the lenght of the route and some unconfortable feeling of being on a very solitary road made me decide for east...yes I might have missed gorgeous views...but I feel good on my decision.
I could talk at lenght about what this amazing trip is giving to me and it's making me discovering but definetly one is that I need to be aware of my limits and accept them, and make decisions based on the respect of who I am and what I need phisically and emotionally...
And I kept going east(there was nowere to stop really) and I made it all the way to The Ocean! Comodororo Rivadavia. The days are getting longer and there is still light after 9pm. The I found a nice place to stay where, after a nice meal( the only of the day) I slept like a baby... after a long 850km ride(530miles)!
Getting closer to te end of the continent...technically Tierra del Fuego is an island infact and I could stop on Rio Gallegos. But a mith is a mith! So I will take the ferry to the mithical island. Getting closer...

Tuesday, December 1, 2009


And here I am ! In Patagonia,Argentina! The last country in the list!
I crossed the border from Osorno in Cile to San Carlos de Bariloche in Argentina yesterday.
It started raining on the chilean side and so I decided to turn east instead of going to Chiloe'...and so no rain but infact on the pass it was snowing....cold really cold! And quite slippery...not so much fun, but as soon as I started going lower and the first lake appeared, it was finally sunny and the beauty of the scenary made it all worth while. Patagonia, the land of the big feet people. No more desert! Water everywhere! And rivers, trees, and green mountains, and snow!
Then...the wind! It was really scary! So strong and so unpredictable...really hard to keep going and when I made it into town, a bit more protected, I was very happy.
The town is very touristy but nice and clean and full of amenities. The mountains around are gorgeus but today is a bit cloudy so no pictures, maybe tomorrow. I met friends of friends here...such nice people!
Your friends are my friends is a true statement! We had a lovely dinner (in a house!)and we talked for hours about arts, politics and our souls...
Tomorrow going to ruta 40 for a while at list, then I'll decide if going with that one all the way or cut on an easier path.
The weather is not so good and the summer seems a bit late as everyone is I'll have to see what to do. Gravel road ok. Mud no.
It's impressive that I keep encountering so many "strangers" and situations that are so spiritually rich. And how we are all talking the same "language" after all. In Chile I discussed about the 2012 "change" that it will happen to the world and the Universe... and I got so many levels of interpretation that I could write about it for hours, but the main point is that it's good to be aware of it and to spread the message,no fear! Just work to be prepared to be ready for a big change that is fear!, amor y luz...
in Peru' a cop ( instead of asking for bribes) was talking about the " spiritual energy" of MatchuPitchu.In Guatemala I was guided right in the middle of a very ancient sacred ritualistic place...words of unity and peace from so many "new" friends...signs, signs everywhere to be noticed and to be followed...

Friday, November 27, 2009


I've arrived in Valparaiso to be welcomed by Martina and Enzo and all the wonderful people at Villa Hostal Kunterbunt...just feeling home! Not only I can see Valparaiso and San Francisco geographical similarities but also this old house reminds me of my old carriage house where I live. The morning of Thanksgiving ( also my 59th birthday)I went to visit the Pablo Neruda's house in Isla Negra (some 60 miles south). That was his favorite house and where he wrote many of his poems. A beautiful house on the cliffs and in many ways of very simple construction but so rich of life, art, dreams and love... I was so ecstatic to be there and to feel the vibrant energy coming from all of it that I didn't care to be one of the many visitors and to be in line and to be ( after all) in an other tourist trap. That place has a magical power that can be felt only if one is there. Anyway! I came back to the hostel and after resting a bit I was invited in the living room and Enzo started playing old 33 and 45 records and it was faboulous! There was also a guitar teacher (Sandro!) and together we jammed for a long time. Than more friends joned in, including the nice of a dear friend of SF, that I contacted earlier and together we had a great party that lasted until very late! It was just fabulous! Today I got my new back brake pads and I'm ready to go but I decided to stay here an other day and relax in this beautiful small city. I will ship my bike back from here and so this is my last camp base to return to after the next leg of my trip. A very good place to come back to.

Wednesday, November 25, 2009

Chile Relleno

Happy Thanksgiving to all!

Monday, November 23, 2009

Desert desert and more desert

Good thing I love the desert because this one is big! Huge! Incredible!
And beautiful. San Pedro de Atacama is rigth in the middle of so much beauty and diversity...and is a perfect place to actually, rest, eat well and to meet nice people. I took a bus trip to la valle de la was fun and stunningly beautiful.
The little museum also is very nice and shows that Incas were here before the spaniards ( the church is from 1500) and the gold work and the artifact of 2000 years ago or so are amazing. The more recent history of the miners is also quite interesting...
I left this morning late and I headed south. And passed the Tropic line!
I finally feel good and I can keep going without fear of getting again pain in my guts. There are mines,and miners, all over in this area, but I'm told that there are also vineyards... haven't seen any but I'll try to find the wine. It's so dry here. Maybe prosecco?
Karl? Not sure...I believe he's in LoveLand...